Photo: HTD
Florence's first GMT is also a diver — a true GMT movement in a 200m case, with the world's cities on the bezel.
Verdict
| What it is | HTD Aquatìc GMT World Timer — 39mm steel diver case, Miyota 9075 true GMT, city-ring bezel on 24 ball-bearing clicks |
| Price | €990 — HTD's own store, checked Fri Nov 6, 2026 |
| Availability | In stock at check (per the build record) |
| The angle | Most microbrand GMTs borrow a diver's look. This one keeps the diver's case — 200m, domed sapphire — and earns the travel function on top |
| Verdict | The world timer is the one to have: the bezel does the work a second dial would, and the watch stays a diver. |
What it is
HTD — Horological Tools Department, founded 2020 — works out of a small Florence lab. The Aquatìc GMT is its first travel watch, built on its Aquatìc dive case: 39mm steel, 12.4mm thick, 200m water resistance, domed sapphire. Inside is a Miyota 9075 true GMT, regulated in HTD's Florence workshop; the local hour jumps independently, which is what separates a true GMT from a caller.
The bezel is the choice. Four versions — Pepsi, root beer, green — or this world timer, its cities printed on a 24-click ball-bearing bezel. A red GMT hand, date at 6, and blue BGW9 lume complete a dial that stays legible under the extra information.
Why it matters
Travel watches usually trade capability for decoration: the GMT arrives and the water resistance, the lume and the case finishing quietly leave. HTD kept the tool specification intact and put the complication where a diver already has hardware — the rotating bezel. Regulation in the maker's own workshop is the other half of the case: a small lab checking its own movements, rather than casing whatever arrives.
Specs
| Brand | HTD (Horological Tools Department), Florence, founded 2020 |
| Model | Aquatìc GMT World Timer |
| Movement | Miyota 9075 true GMT automatic, regulated in HTD's Florence workshop (per maker) |
| Dial | Red GMT hand, date at 6, blue BGW9 lume (per maker) |
| Case | Steel, 39mm × 12.4mm (per maker) |
| Bezel | World-timer city ring, 24-click ball-bearing action (per maker); Pepsi, root beer and green bezels also offered |
| Crystal | Domed sapphire (per maker) |
| Water resistance | 200m (per maker) |
| Strap / bracelet | Not stated |
What to check before buying
- True GMT means the hour jumps, not the GMT hand. The 9075 is the flyer type. If you cross time zones often, that distinction is the whole purchase.
- Bezel choice is fixed at order. Four bezels, one watch. The world timer reads cities; the coloured bezels read a second zone. Pick by how you actually travel.
- Regulation is the maker's claim, stated as such. HTD says the 9075 is regulated in its Florence workshop. We carry it as the maker's word.
- Strap details were not stated in the build record. Check the store listing for what ships on the wrist before ordering.
Price record
| Price | €990 |
| Source | HTD's own store (htdwatches.com), checked Fri Nov 6, 2026 — in stock at check |
| Featured on our Instagram | Fri Nov 6, 2026 — Spotted (extra) |
Want one?
- In the shop: browse current stock — one-off pieces, and they turn over fast.
- Hunting one? Join the Want List — tell us the maker and the budget; pieces like this surface in our trawl most weeks.
- This one: at the source — See it at HTD. Not our listing. See Disclosure.
Related picks
- Spinnaker Dumas GMT Inkdial SP-5188-01 — drawn, not printed, at $495
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- Brew Metric Chrono Taxi — a meca-quartz chrono at $495
Spotted, not sold by us — this piece lives at HTD's own store. Prices are a snapshot from when we spotted it. Disclosure
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Shop the pick
HTD Aquatìc GMT World Timer
€990 — HTD's own store, checked Fri Nov 6, 2026
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